This is a very belated perfume review and it’s definitely not because this isn’t a wonderful perfume. It is. Hyde is another interesting work from Hiram Green and made my best of fragrances for 2018. It has also recently won the Artisan award at the Art & Olfaction awards held in Amsterdam. I love his work so straight off the bat I’m biased in that direction and have a keen interest in what he is creating. I have nearly all of the perfumes in the 10ml size and wear them frequently.
Now that summer has arrived with brute force Dilettante gets a lot of wear. It’s orange blossom heaven and one of my favourites. Moon Bloom is the debutante in the line and announced Hiram’s arrival in the most brilliant way. A tuberose (and natural to boot) that shines like a diamond – truly. You can read more about Hiram here on the blog and other perfumes in his collection – Voyage, Arbolé Arbolé and Slowdive.
I recently met with Hiram at Esxence where he debuted Lustre, a perfume which is absolutely divine and more on that soon. The 10ml size perfumes are no longer available which is a shame, however as a business decision I completely understand, as these are low margin items that cost a lot to produce and for smaller brands it’s expensive to have a multitude of sizes available.
Hyde (EDP) : from Hiram Green // Perfumer : Hiram Green // Year : 2018 // Notes : lemon, bergamot, birch tar, cassie, labdanum, vanilla, oakmoss
The Low Down : A perfume with a Jekyll and Hyde personality. From a ferocious start to a sublime finish, this is pure artistry in a bottle.
I will be honest here that even though I admire and enjoy this perfume it is not my favourite in the line, however it is a fabulous scent and was listed as one of the best perfumes I tried in 2018. The new scent Lustre is more me than Hyde – a rose that smells luscious, feels simple and easy to wear. One that I could happily spray on every day.
The thing about Hiram Green perfumes though is that they are very evocative, thoughtful and creative. They really dial in a mood, time and place. Plus they are all natural, and Hyde in particular really subverts everything you thought you knew about natural fragrance : that they are wussy light blends, have no lasting power, smell samey, and have no flair. Well if you thought this, then you really need to try Hiram’s perfumes.
Hyde is a smoky style leather perfume, very dry and seemingly laden with birch tar. It feels as though this material is overdosed at the beginning, although there is a flash of citrus that appears in the opening. I will confess that it’s not my favourite stage of the scent and it’s a bit much for me. It is powerful and fully formed, leathery and smoky but not super butch.
The scent starts to morph after a while and lessens in potency. You can feel the change as it becomes more floral, with touches of green but as cassia has spicy facets the scent still feels warm and envelopping.
Hours later, the scent reveals a dried pot pourri floral facet attenuated by labdanum. It smells like incense sticks blowing through a room. I felt like there was a candle burning somewhere the first time Hyde was worn, but no I realised that it was the perfume scenting the space. The perfume has a Jekyll and Hyde personality with this fiery beginning and then this relaxing, contemplative moment. This part for me is really beautiful and it always takes me by surprise when it arrives.
Also for those of you who adore long lasting scents, Hyde on my skin is by far the winner in the Hiram Green range. This one gallops for hours and provides contrast and interest and is a vastly different scent from the beginning to the end, so is a good fit for those who like to be taken on a journey.
For where to purchase : Please see the Hiram Green website for further details. The EDP is 155 Euro and a 1ml sample is 5,40 Euro. //
Images : Cover image courtesy of Pixabay // Hyde from Hiram Green. //
Disclaimer : Sample gratefully received from Hiram Green. Opinions my own. //