I may have already told you about my crush on Masque Milano. Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi are creative directors, adept at bringing forth a swathe of creativity from their stellar line up of perfumers. They have slowly but surely built a formidable collection of perfumes. My favourite to date is Tango from Cécile Zarokian but new perfume L’Attesa (The Wait) is putting up a strong challenge. It’s one of the best iris perfumes I’ve had the pleasure of smelling and I think they have another indie hit on their hands. Brun and Tedeschi must be pleased with how this one has turned out. I will add that while I like iris, it’s not one of my absolute favourite notes in perfumery, but along with Iris Silver Mist (Serge Lutens) and Khol de Bahrein (SHL 777) this perfume really appeals to me, and sits in the middle of these two in terms of warmth. It was one of the best perfumes I smelt at Esxence this year.
Masque are also talent scout supremos. Brun and Tedeschi told me they are now in the enviable position of being approached by new perfumers keen to work with Masque and make their mark. Brun revealed that technical ability is a given, but they want more than this. They are searching for someone with a thirst for the new, who can bring something fresh to the table. Masque also have a clear idea of the perfume they seek and push hard to get there. L’Attesa was a year in the making. The waiting may have been the hardest part but it was worth it.
“We are very happy with the result of the final perfume because it’s one year of work and huge research behind the raw materials.”
L’Attesa EDP : Nose : Luca Maffei : Year : 2016 : Notes : Top : Italian Bergamot, Moroccan Neroli, Champagne Accord : Middle : Italian Iris Absolute, Italian Iris Root Butter, French Iris Root Butter, Tuberose Absolute, Madagascar Ylang Ylang : Base : Sandalwood Mysore, Oakmoss, Leather Accord.
Not only has Maffei used top notch iris materials, but he’s been inventive with his champagne accord containing yeast that works to provide a pleated Issey Miyake (the designer not the perfume) like layered iris effect. The perfume manages to feel textured yet not dense. It has a lightness and depth that I found in another perfume I liked last year called I Miss Violet from The Different Company.
The bergamot and neroli top notes are effervescent and really do seem to sparkle like fizz in your glass. The iris smells slightly rooty at first but this is not an earthy perfume. In fact it’s a smooth and classy scent that doesn’t wade too deeply into creamy territory, but is gently fluffed by a powder puff. Neither is it an overly sweet perfume. Rest assured that L’Attesa is all about the iris. According to Brun, Maffei worked on taking materials out of the formula to let the iris shine through. There’s no confusion that she’s the star of the show. L’Attesa sparkles and feels alive, it has a lot to say but like those adept at tweeting, uses few words. It’s not a powerhouse perfume, it has a cool restraint yet there is strength of purpose. L’Attesa also dries down beautifully and I smell ylang ylang and tuberose flying over the sandalwood. Chic yet dreamy is how I feel about this perfume. It has a floaty quality to it that I adore and in my dreams I’m spraying this lavishly from the bottle (it’s not quite the same out of a small sample spray) in Venice as the sun goes down, walking the cobbled streets and losing myself in the beauty.
The Low Down : A chic yet dreamy iris lovers dream. Add this to your iris list. Sublime.
For where to purchase : Please see the Masque Milano website for further details.
Disclosure : Sample from Masque at Esxence
Notes : Images : Megan In Sainte Maxime