Hello perfume people. I haven’t written a monthly update on fragrance news for a while … but finally here’s one. There are a few perfumes that will be released or have already been sent into the world that have me hot under the collar. Yes I’m interested thank you very much.
McQueen : The fashion house, Alexander McQueen is releasing a new perfume. I was a huge fan of the man’s talent and now with Sarah Burton running the show, it was time they released a perfume worthy of the house. I’m hoping it’s as distinctive as the fashion. Previous perfume Kingdom made with the man himself was apparently incredible, if not a tad heavy on the cumin from many reports, but alas was discontinued before I discovered fragrance land.
The parfum is out already (350 Euro) and an EDP version will be released in a different bottle and presumably at a lower price point, but no doubt in a watered down version. Interesting move to release the parfum first. I presume we can expect more fashion houses to emulate this move. The price point is fairly steep and no doubt will ensure that prices continue to climb in this sector. The bottle looks exquisite.
“I wanted this fragrance to come from night flowers, the kind that exudes an eternal freshness once the day is gone… Here at McQueen, we are all about discoveries and the eternal blossom; originality in an atmosphere of tradition, craft, and daring.” (Sarah Burton)
L’Attesa : Masque will release L’Attesa, their new perfume at Esxence in Milan later this month. Oh yes please. Love their work. It’s interesting, and makes me dream. Plus L’Attesa sounds like an iris lovers dream and it’s made by Luca Maffei, a young Italian perfumer whose work I rate. He delivered a new take on aquatics with Acquasala for Gabriella Chieffo and the oudy Garuda and sweet Néa that I overdosed on in the snow recently from Jul et Mad. It’s always difficult to judge a perfume by its list of notes and accords but this definitely has me drooling.
Top : Italian Bergamot, Moroccan Neroli, Champagne accord : Middle :Italian Iris absolute, Italian Iris Root Butter, French Iris Root Butter, Tuberose abs., Ylang Ylang Madagascar : Base : Sandalwood Mysore, Oakmoss, Leather accord
Grace by Grace Coddington and Comme des Garcons : If you’ve seen the fashion film The September Issue you will know who this woman is. She is portrayed as the creative muse to Anna Wintour‘s The Devil Wears Prada persona at US Vogue. There is a cat theme for the bottle and the perfume is on shelves at Dover Street Market from April 19.
Belle de Jour, Night Flower and Ma Bête : Barbara Herman who writes the blog Yesterday’s Perfume, about vintage fragrances and the book Scent & Subversion (a good primer to school up on perfumes of yesteryear) has launched Eris Perfumes (named after the Greek goddess Eris). She’s worked with perfumer Antoine Lie and there are three scents – Belle de Jour, Night Flower and Ma Bête. The perfumes are inspired by old school floral animalics but with a modern sensibility. Until March 30 samples are available exclusively from Lucky Scent. I’m interested to see her and Antoine’s take on the genre.
Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate and Eau de Neroli Doré : Two new Eau de Colognes to add to the collection in the brightly coloured bottles. Here we see new Hermes perfumer Christine Nagel introduce her first scent for the French luxury house with Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate. Jean Claude Ellena is in charge of the Neroli. I had a quick smell at the duty free store a couple of days ago and can attest that the Rhubarbe has a gorgeous bright, effervescent opening and the Neroli falls a bit flat in comparison. About half an hour in though, the neroli starts to smell more appealing. I’m definitely keen to try these again, as I would love a neroli that doesn’t charge Tom Ford prices.
Moko Maori : Anaïs Biguine the creator of the Jardins d’Ecrivains perfumes and the courtesan inspired Les Cocottes range has come up with a more modern line of three perfumes inspired by tattoos called Gri Gri Perfumes. Interestingly one of these is the Maori inspired Moko Maori. Well I’m Maori so have more than a little interest as to her take on what this perfume may smell like. The notes are grass, flax, fern, manuka, kowhai, lichen and kanuka. If you’re from New Zealand many of these notes will be familiar – but not in a perfume.
Fruitchouli Flash : Tauerville (Andy Tauer’s less pricey line) has released another Flash perfume and this time it’s a fruitchouli that may evoke thoughts of pleasure or horror depending on your thoughts on the genre.
“In a nutshell: Fruitchouli is a fruity floral, not overly sweet, with notes of apricot (natural) and peach, with a dash of rose and gentle white flowers and a great musky patchouli that lasts forever.
It is for women and men who dare.” (Andy Tauer)
Lonesome Rider : Andy Tauer has released Lonesome Rider as a thank you to his customers. I have received my sample, so a review will be coming soon.
Cierge de Lune : Aedes de Venustas has a stellar line of scents already, and of course there’s the store in New York that I’ve never visited but it looks great online. This new release highlights the dark side of vanilla and the nose is Fabrice Pellegrin. I’m a fan of Copal Azur and am definitely lusting after this one.
Nishane : Is a perfume brand from Turkey that I discovered last year. They make strong, long lasting scents and will release two more to their collection at Esxence. I don’t have any more details as yet but I’m looking forward to see what treats they have in store.
With all the talk on discontinuations, it seems to me that if you love a perfume it’s best to buy on first release, as you’re getting the best version. Perfumes get reformulated the longer they stay on the market (and this does not mean they’re improved, it’s typically the opposite). Just look at Opium to see a perfume cut down, reworked and obliterated. Well that’s my advice but it will be interesting to see if I take my own medicine.
Let me know if there are any perfumes that you’re looking forward to that are coming out or have just been released. There are no doubt plenty more that I’m not aware of.
Images : All images from the brand in question, except : Grace : Vogue.com : Ma Bete – Lucky Scent : All other photos Megan In Sainte Maxime