Andy Tauer is one of my favourite perfumers and I finally had the pleasure of meeting him in Florence at Pitti Fragrance where I embarrassingly told him I was a huge fan. Oh well it was true. His modern classic L’Air Du Desert Marocain (LADDM) is a an arid, herbal, ambered beauty that will always have a place in my collection. It’s gorgeous and deserves all the critical acclaim it garners. Another favourite is Le Maroc Pour Elle, a stunning rose and jasmine roughed up with lashings of patchouli.
Tauer of course has charted the path for indie perfume brands use of social media as a way of engaging with their fan base in lieu of the big budget advertising that the big boy brands use. It is this facet that really intrigued me when I first became interested in perfume. He seemed like such a breath of fresh air compared to the luxury brands and their campaigns that generally portray the done to death sexual attraction and conquest imagery, that just seems a bit tired these days.
More recently Tauer has launched Tauerville that to date has produced four perfumes at a lower price point than his regular range. Of the three I’ve tried (the latest release Amber Flash has eluded me so far but I will get hold of it) in this collection Rose Flash is a stand out. It’s a stunning bold, jammy rose.
Sotta La Luna Tuberose – EDP : Nose : Andy Tauer : Year : 2015 : Notes : Top : Cinnamon, Geranium, Clove and Galbanum : Middle : Tuberose, Ylang ylang, Jasmine, Rose : Base : Tuberose, Patchouli and Ambergris.
Now first up I will say that this is an unusual and unique interpretation of tuberose. If you know the flower through gold standard tuberose perfumes like Fracas (Robert Piguet) and Carnal Flower (Frédéric Malle) then Sotta La Luna Tuberose will provide a whole new perspective. It’s difficult to say what this perfume reminds me of but it’s a strange little creation and in this sense I would put it closer to the freaky tuberoses like Serge Lutens‘ Tubéreuse Criminelle and L’Artisan Parfumeur‘s Nuit de Tubéreuse as these are playing a different game and they’re outsiders, yet they stand out and stake a claim.
There’s a fizziness and a mentholated aspect that is far from the dizzying heights that emanates from the opening of Tubéreuse Criminelle but it is present. Along with this aspect is a pronounced spiciness from cinnamon and clove. Sotta La Luna Tuberose is a tuberose flecked with green and this hue lasts throughout the development as the tuberose pokes out from time to time from underneath the layers of spice and galbanum. The spiciness turns into something more peppered as the perfume wears. There are other florals listed in the notes but they don’t really jump out at me as the texture is murky yet very heavy. The patchouli and ambergris lend a slightly roughed up dirtier theme.
Sotta La Luna Tuberose for me is the bohemian tuberose. It’s a perfume that doesn’t’ play by the rules and does its own thing. I wouldn’t label it a happy tuberose, the green sheen to this perfume null and voids that preconception. It flits between spicy, mentholated and vegetal greenery that takes me on a road trip listening to old classics given a contemporary make over. It’s like ‘Jolene’ by The White Stripes or Nirvana’s take on ‘The Man Who Sold The World’. These are songs given a different spin, that sound equally convincing but the magic works in quite a different way to the original.
It does share similarities with Sotta La Luna Gardenia the other perfume in this ‘Under The Moon’ series, in that it’s a more unusual rendition of the note. If you find tuberose difficult in general this perfume may be a way to ease yourself in to the note. To my taste Sotta La Luna Tuberose is more of a masculine tuberose, as the usual trappings are dispensed with here. Gone is the lush, creaminess and the typical brash skyscraper effect that is the more common interpretation of the flower and in its place is a roughed up, meandering, green spiced rendition. As with all Tauer perfumes the longevity is huge. I sprayed in the morning and it was still evident at 7pm. If you’re up for a change of pace then Sotta La Luna Tuberose is definitely a spiced up tuberose that will take you off the beaten track.
The Low Down : An unusual and unique interpretation of tuberose – tinted green, spiced and peppered. Prepare to be taken on a trip off the beaten path.
Read more about Sotta La Luna Tuberose on : Now Smell This and Colognoisseur.
For where to purchase : Please see the Tauer Perfumes website for further details. A 50ml bottle is available for 105.80 Euro and samples are 4.60 Euro each.
Disclosure : This review was based on a sample I purchased. Opinions my own.
Notes : Images : All from Andy Tauer.
Since tuberose never works for me, I won’t be looking for a sample of this perfume. But I have my favorites in Tauer’s line (LADDM anf Une Rose Vermeire being two main loves) and I like how Andy engages his fans, so I hope his brand keeps being successful.
No probably best to ignore tuberose if none work for you. It really seems to be one of those difficult notes. Undina I adore Une Rose Vermeille too. Such a gorgeous rose. Have you tried Rose Flash? Chances are you may like that one too. I also hope he keeps getting new fans as has quite a range now and the Tauerville perfumes seem to be pretty popular.
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I haven’t tried any of the Tauerville’s perfumes: I’m not a big fan of “budget” perfumes and kind of dislike when brands start creating multiple sub-brands. But if I ever come across it, I’ll definitely give it a try.
A fabulous review. I haven’t tried this yet which is unusual for me. I used to get my samples from dear Ronny at Scent and Sensibility but she has closed the shop now. I shall just have to have another annual pig-out at Les Senteurs.
I love your description and you have really made me want to try this. I love Tubereuse Criiminelle as you know so I am open to edgy interpretations of the mighty tuberose. Andy always does fantastic longevity too so a little goes a long way. I’m jealous you met him. I would love to!
Sotto La Luna Tuberose: It will be mine, I tell you, it will be mine…
warmest wishes from Wales to France
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Hi Sam. Thanks for reading. I did hope I didn’t come across as a nutter when I met him. He was really busy at Pitti so I pounced when I saw a free moment. Well it is an unusual one and you do like the Criminelle, so I think you would immediately be more predisposed towards this one. I make those samples last for quite a while and live off those little sets in the silver tin. They’re great when you go travelling too. Have a great Xmas too with your family. x Megan
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Thank you Megan, you too my friend x
I love tuberose but have not been drawn to any of Andy’s perfumes in a while. I used to love quite a few and then they just didn’t work on me anymore. I gave one bottle away I’m considering getting rid of the other one I have. I sampled the gardenia one and my skin turned it into something pretty foul. While I do like how you’ve described this I won’t go seeking it out.
Hi Poodle. Ah interesting that they now don’t work on you. Has that happened with other perfumes apart from Tauer’s? Oh well definitely not one for you!
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