Some stands at Pitti Fragranze back in September were working a brisk trade. Ormonde Jayne was one of these. Linda Pilkington the founder of the perfume house was simply buzzing about the launch of her new perfume Vanille d’Iris. She explained that it was one of her most accomplished releases and the orris absolute was of a very high quality. When I first smelt it at Pitti it was the rich, buttery smooth texture that stood out for me but I knew I needed to spend more time with it to see how it held up after repeated wears.
The Ormonde Jayne range of perfumes are created by Linda Pilkington and perfumer Geza Schoen. I’m rather fond of the floral orientals in the collection – Ta’if, Tolu and Orris Noir more so than the others in the range. Now Vanille d’Iris has joined her covetable collection in the afore mentioned category.
Geza Schoen is primarily known for his Molecule 01 perfume, which has been LA based perfume retailer Lucky Scent’s biggest seller for the past six years (read up on the Lucky Scent vs Jovoy face off here). He is also behind The Beautiful Mind series – read here for my review of his Volume 2 Precision & Grace.
Vanille d’Iris : Nose : Geza Schoen : Year : 2015 : Notes : Top: Coriander seed, Sicilian bergamot, carrot seed, pink pepper : Heart: Orris absolute, Jasmine absolute, Magnolia bud oil, Osmanthus : Base : Vanilla extract, Tahitian vanilla bud, Cedar wood, Vetiver, Amber, Musk
Vanille d’Iris is one of my favourite perfumes from Pitti Fragranze. I’ve returned to it again and again for its uplifting and elegant qualities. The scent simply tricks me into feeling beautiful. It has a knack of lending me an air that is not quite my own. I feel dressed up, more poised and put together than I am in reality. It has the air of a luxe product and this isn’t always true of niche perfumes that make such claims.
The opening comes across as lemony to me (although this isn’t mentioned in the notes) with a tiny dose of carrot and pink pepper that doesn’t outstay its welcome. It’s pretty and fresh but that gorgeous orris crashes in on foam peaked waves and takes out everything in its wake. When Pilkington talked about the orris, she said it was extremely pricey and you’ll be able to feel this on skin. It’s beautifully delivered here. Don’t think rooty iris or powdered iris as Vanille d’Iris is neither of these. It’s smooth, creamy and buttery. I adore it, and if like me you have taken your time to discover the hidden depths of the iris, then this perfume may be the short cut to experiencing one you’ll love.
The vanilla plays back up to the iris and is a much more demure take on a note that plays out in all sorts of tones and shades in the perfume world. Here Ormonde Jayne have replicated the brown sugar smell of the vanilla pod and it is a lovely rendition. The final act ushers in a woody dry down with cedar and vetiver wrapped in a musky base.
Vanille d’Iris evokes pale shades of beige and silken creams with a very smooth texture. If this was a fabric it would be smooth cashmere or the lightest leather imaginable that drapes on skin and nearly melds into it. It has an uncomplicated feel that brings to mind a pared back look, rather than layer upon layer of clothing. Steven Meisel’s photographs of Kate Winslet as Catherine Deneuve‘s Belle de Jour portray this perfume for me. It’s sleek and elegant with a coolness to its allure. Vanille d’Iris transports me to a more gilded existence than my own reality. But if perfume can make one dream, then the job has been well done.
The Low Down : A smooth, creamy perfume showcasing iris with a vanilla backing, wrapped in woods and musk. It’s an elegant, luxe perfume that will make you feel smartly dressed and well put together. My favourite in the Ormonde Jayne line to date.
For where to purchase : Please see the Ormonde Jayne website for further details. A 50ml EDP is available for £90 and a 120ml bottle is £140. There is also a travel spray set of 4 x 10ml sprays for £70 and a made to measure option, where you choose the concentration.
Notes : Images : Kate Winslet as Catherine Deneuve, shot by Steven Meisel for Vanity Fair. Linda Pilkington my own.
Disclosure : Sample gratefully obtained from Ormonde Jayne at Pitti Fragrance. Opinions my own.