Some stands at Pitti Fragranze back in September were working a brisk trade. Ormonde Jayne was  one of these.  Linda Pilkington the founder of the perfume house was simply buzzing about the launch of her new perfume Vanille d’Iris. She explained that it was one of her most accomplished releases and the orris absolute was of a very high  quality. When I first smelt it at Pitti it was the rich, buttery smooth texture that stood out for me but I knew I needed to spend more time with it to see how it held up after repeated wears.

The Ormonde Jayne range of perfumes are created by Linda Pilkington and perfumer Geza Schoen. I’m rather fond of the floral orientals in the collection – Ta’if, Tolu and Orris Noir more so than the others in the range. Now Vanille d’Iris has joined her covetable collection in the afore mentioned category.

Geza Schoen is primarily known for his Molecule 01 perfume, which has been LA based perfume retailer Lucky Scent’s biggest seller for the past six years (read up on the Lucky Scent vs Jovoy face off here).  He is also behind The Beautiful Mind series – read here for my review of his Volume 2 Precision & Grace.

Vanille d’Iris : Nose : Geza Schoen : Year : 2015 : Notes : Top: Coriander seed, Sicilian bergamot, carrot seed, pink pepper : Heart: Orris absolute, Jasmine absolute, Magnolia bud oil, Osmanthus : Base : Vanilla extract, Tahitian vanilla bud, Cedar wood, Vetiver, Amber, Musk

The vanilla  plays back up to the iris and is a much more demure take on a note that plays out in all sorts of tones and shades in the perfume world. Here Ormonde Jayne have replicated the brown sugar smell of the vanilla pod and it is a lovely rendition. The final act ushers in a woody  dry down with cedar and vetiver wrapped in a musky base.

Vanille d’Iris evokes pale shades of beige and silken creams with a very smooth texture. If this was a fabric it would be smooth cashmere or the lightest leather imaginable that drapes on skin and nearly melds into it. It has an uncomplicated feel that brings to mind a pared back look, rather than layer upon layer of clothing. Steven Meisel’s photographs of Kate Winslet as Catherine Deneuve‘s Belle de Jour portray this perfume for me. It’s sleek and elegant with a coolness to its allure. Vanille d’Iris  transports me to a more gilded existence than my own reality. But if perfume can make one dream, then the job has been well done.

The Low Down : A smooth, creamy perfume showcasing iris with a vanilla backing, wrapped in woods and musk. It’s an elegant, luxe perfume that will make you feel smartly dressed and well put together. My favourite in the Ormonde Jayne line to date. 

Read more about Vanille d’Iris on : Perfume Posse and Get Lippie.

For where to purchase : Please see the Ormonde Jayne website for further details. A 50ml EDP is available for £90 and a 120ml bottle is £140. There is also a travel spray set of 4 x 10ml sprays for £70 and  a made to measure option, where you choose the concentration. 

Notes : Images :  Kate Winslet as Catherine Deneuve, shot by Steven Meisel for Vanity Fair. Linda Pilkington my own. 

Disclosure : Sample gratefully obtained from Ormonde Jayne at Pitti Fragrance. Opinions my own.