Note : An edited version of this article appeared on Ca Fleure Bon by Megan In Sainte Maxime
Atelier Des Ors is a new perfume brand that was brought to my attention at Esxence in March. In Milan I had the pleasure of speaking with French founder Jean-Philippe Clermont, as he showcased his range comprising five perfumes. The aim of Atelier Des Ors is to deliver haute parfumerie with an expression of elegance, mystery and passion grounded in French style. Jean-Philippe intimated that he wanted to ensure that customers felt an emotion and can dream when wearing the scents.
The bottles for the collection are something to behold. Gold clearly is an important element of symbology within the brand’s architecture. The back of the flacons are indented to convey the glimmer of the sun’s golden rays, while 24K flecks of gold float and shimmer in its liquid contents. Gold is highlighted in the name of the brand also. This element of the perfume presentation you will like or find excessive, but the bottles are absolutely fantastic to hold in the hand.
The nose behind each fragrance in the range is Marie Salamagne, a Firmenich perfumer who, according to Jean-Philippe was perfect for Atelier des Ors.
” She is very passionate and to me it was very important.”
Salamagne’s passion and sensibility is clearly evident in these perfumes. Her talents cover a wide range of territory including Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic (Guerlain). She is also one of the perfumers behind Black Opium (Yves Saint Laurent) and recently signed Alaia Paris, the first foray into perfume for this fashion designer.
Overall the five perfumes in the range have a polished feel and it’s an eclectic collection of scents that is skewed towards Middle Eastern tastes. They are all fairly strong perfumes with good longevity and I’m sure there will be something within this range that will get under your skin.
Here are my impressions of the five perfumes in the range : Cuir Sacré, Lune Féline, Rose Omeyadde, Aube Rubis and Larmes du Désert.
Lune Féline : Gourmet Vanilla
Lune Féline is a sumptuously rich gourmet vanilla perfume with an ambered touch. It’s a decadent over the top sweet treat that I would bathe in if I could. It has an addictive, alluring opening with a touch of spice, courtesy of cardamom and cinnamon. Lune Féline is plumped up in the base with resins, musks and woods which lend a darkly luscious dimension to the scent until its conclusion. Vanilla Tahitensis is summoned here in all its fruity, floral and yes definitely sweet glory. It has a treacled golden syrup like smell and if you have a fetish for loved up gourmand vanillas then you must try this. It’s simply heavenly. It also lasts and lasts. My favourite in the range.
Cuir Sacré : Gold Leather
This was the perfume that won me over at Esxence and was my initial pick when I first tried the line with Jean-Philippe. But the sweet, treacly Lune Féline has now stolen my affections. Cuir Sacré is a smart, elegant leather with a sleek smoothness in its curves. A delicate hint of juniper is followed by a light dusting of cardamom and saffron that plumps the leather accord. The absence of floral notes makes this more of a masculine leather to my nose. Vetiver is also fully present in the base that provides a further nudge towards Monsieur. Cuir Sacré is a safe and solid choice with its thick, buttery leather that swims in smoothness with a luxurious feel. There is a warmth to Cuir Sacré that would add a layer of comfort in winter when curled up on the couch by the fire at the end of a long day. Perhaps you may have Don Draper by your side. He would wear this perfume with aplomb.
Rose Omeyyade : Luscious Rose
Rose Omeyyade is a succulent, full-bodied fruity ambered rose. It opens with pink pepper and a hint of luscious raspberry. It is a dark pink rose that I imagine has been sprinkled in brown sugar emerging in a wood fired glow. There’s a dusky facet to this rose that beguiles and it’s one of those perfumes you need to test on skin. Rose Omeyyade smells infinitely better on my skin than paper, as I get hints of a chemical smoky base that doesn’t agree with me on a mouilette, yet on skin this dissipates. This is a scent that has presence and could be worn equally as well by a man or woman.
Larmes du Désert : Sacred Nights
Larmes du Désert has a certain oriental charm. It’s a viscous dark woody scent that conjures up warm nights in the dry, unforgiving heat. There is a weight to this scent. It has a sense of mystery and makes me feel as if I’m transported to a mystical ceremony that summons gravitas. Larmes du Désert suggests the masculine. There’s no sweetness here, just the hum of frankincense, woods and resins. Originally when I sampled this scent it was not for me. But now, a few months later I’m retrying these perfumes and finding that I like it more and more. It reminds me of a dustier, Wazamba from Parfum d’Empire (one of my favourite perfume brands by the way) stripped of its fruits.
Aube Rubis : Luxe Fruitchouli
This perfume is what I would term a luxe fruitchouli. Aube Rubis has presence and determination alongside a healthy dose of patchouli. I can smell its headiness from start to finish. The opening centers on bergamot, grapefruit and blackcurrant but the patchouli ensures that the fruits are not the dominant players. Iris and violet enter gracefully in the heart and provide a bite of popcorn sweetness. This is the part of the scent that I like the most with its lashings of candied allure. Patchouli, vetiver and praline in the base ensure the perfume has tenacity. This is my least favourite of the five perfumes but even so there are parts of this perfume I do like, but the overall package is not quite my cup of tea.
GIVEAWAY : Get your noses on Cuir Sacré
I have 2 x 5ml samples decanted from my bottle of Cuir Sacré to be won. So there will be 2 winners who will win 1 x 5ml each. No guarantees on a gold flake entering the sample vial though.
Note that I won’t take responsibility if the sample is lost in transit, although I’ve had no problems sending to various destinations so far.
HOW TO WIN :
1) You must follow Megan In Sainte Maxime in some way to be in to win. Either here or on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram. Look at the bottom of the page where it turns black and click on the social media link that you want to follow.
2) Let me know in the comments how you follow.
4) Draw closes on Monday 31 August Midnight Paris.
For where to purchase : Please see the Atelier Des Ors website for further details. At Jovoy in Paris, they’re priced at 225€ for a 100ml bottle.
Disclosure : Samples from Atelier des Ors at Esxence. Opinions my own.
Notes : Images : Featured : Photo by Megan In Sainte Maxime : Jean – Philippe Clermont from Linked In : Marie Salamagne from Roger & Gallet.