Téo Cabanel is an historic perfume house that was resurrected in 2005 with Caroline Ilacqua heading up the company and Jean – François Latty acting as the nose. This is a range that uses a high proportion of naturals and makes classic French perfumes. There are currently eight scents in the range and there will be something for everyone with Méloé and Hegoa summoning Mediterranean summer freshness to oriental beauties Alahine and Barkhane. There is also a fruity floral in the range – Julia, one of the Duchess of Windsor‘s favourite perfumes. Two rose fragrances Early Roses and Oha are in the collection for lovers of the majestic flower, while the new release Lace Garden is a beautiful white floral I’ve reviewed the Eau de Toilette’s in the range : Méloé, Hegoa and Julia previously. Now I’m focusing my attention on the Eau de Parfum’s : Early Roses, Oha, Alahine and Barkhane. The recent release Lace Garden will follow.
Early Roses EDP
Early Roses is a lovely fresh, youthful rose. It’s not quite a pastel shade of pink, it’s deeper than that, yet feels very feminine. There’s a simplicity in its execution with a fragrant Bulgarian rose and a shake of pink pepper. Jasmine provides warmth while woods and musk wrap around the bouquet like a nervous first kiss full of promise. A rose for spring and summer.
Oha is a floral chypre with a touch of modernity. It’s an elegant rose with a plushness that feels a bit posh and is a rose I could wear often. There’s a bluster up front but it settles down to a quieter scent soon after. There’s a warmth to Oha that I like and it has a more grown up feel than its younger sister Early Roses. After the initial bergamot, the rose packs a punch and the flowers are lush, dark red and potently delicious. There is also a swathe of jasmine that brings that classic combination to fruition. There’s a little sweetness with the iris and vanilla and a nice mossy dry down with hints of patchouli and a powdery finish. It’s well blended and smell expensive. This scent would fare well as a work scent when you need a boost before an important meeting or when relaxing in the evening. I could imagine someone like Juliette Binoche wearing Oha. She’s a beautiful woman free from the uncertainty of youth. She has that French elegance that lacks artifice; she seems interesting and has lived a life.
Alahine is the jewel in Téo Cabanel’s crown. It’s a floral amber with an expansive character that weaves a crafty spell of delight. In tone it feels different to the other fragrances in the house. It’s a sensual perfume with an oriental flair. Up front it has an instant allure and following the initial spritz of bergamot, it segues into a ripely gorgeous scent. It’s a little smoky and maybe there’s a little honey that gives Alahine a bit of a boozy edge. The ylang ylang is ever present and lends a heavenly floral tone that gives a slight rosiness on the periphery. It quietens to a powdery, vanilla and benzoin amber and becomes a comforting, but still magical scent. It doesn’t have huge sillage but up close it has potency. It really is a stunner and is the Monica Bellucci perfume in the Téo Cabanel range, although this would smell equally divine on a man.
Barkhane is a spiced up amber that recalls desert winds rippling over sand dunes. It’s a warm and embracing rendition of a Moroccan styled perfume that I happen to like a lot. The bergamot opening quickly blows over to reveal hints of a rosy geranium and then it morphs into an oriental hued fragrance and this mood stays until the conclusion. There is a slight touch of cumin and curry so if you’re not a fan of these spicy notes, that may be a problem, although I don’t find them unmanageable and they’re not as prominent as in other perfumes of a similar ilk. The perfume also boasts some of my favourite notes in tonka, myrrh, vanilla and patchouli. There’s a bit of oud apparently but it’s not that prominent to my nose. If you like ambers with a touch of spice I believe this is a very wearable iteration. Barkhane is a rich, enveloping and magnetic fragrance that along with Alahine ensures that the range encompasses an oriental touch.
Check the Téo Cabanel website for purchase details and availability.
Note : Images : Bottles : Fragrantica : The Notebook kiss : beingalison.com, favim.com : Juliette Binoche : 3.bp.blogspot.com (black and white), thewallpapersonline.com (in dress) : Monica Bellucci : Italian Vogue : Yves Saint Laurent’s Moroccan Interior : Italian Vogue