A version of this article has previously appeared on Ca Fleure Bon by Megan In Sainte Maxime.
Bertrand Duchaufour doesn’t really need much of an introduction to perfume lovers. He creates stunningly beautiful perfumes and I love his burgeoning empire of scent. His ability to work with contrasts and conjure interesting accords is legendary. I tend to gravitate towards his more lush compositions such as Seville à l’aube, Vanille Absolument (L’Artisan Parfumeur), Rose Cut (Ann Gerard), as well as all of the Neela Vermeires (Mohur, Trayee, Bombay Bling, Ashoka and Pichola).
Bertrand’s new composition for The Different Company (TDC) was launched at Esxence and is quirkily entitled I miss Violet. This is not his first scent for TDC, he has also signed Aurore Nomade, Oud for Love and Oud Shamash. He refined I miss Violet for three years to ensure that it was crafted with originality, strength and a long lasting sillage.
I’ll just start by saying that leathers were rock and rolling all over Esxence. Each range seemed to have a leather, and the memo for a new collection obviously instructed brand owners to pop one in the collection – pronto. I was wondering if there was a leather that would satisfy my quest for a unique take on the genre, that I hadn’t smelt before. Anything had the potential to take my fancy – from subtle suedes to butch smoky birch tar bombs and everything in between.
I miss Violet is without doubt one of the best leathers I smelt at Esxence. This is a divine iteration, smooth, polished and wallowing in luxury. More importantly this leather for me provides a solution to the somewhat vexing situation that I’m sure every scent lover faces at some point. I’m finding that many of my perfume favourites are unwearable on an everyday basis. I passionately love, desire and yearn for their fragrant charms, but sometimes they’re just not suitable, they can overwhelm or envelop me in their sensuousness. This lushness of being is not always a welcome guest.
Imagine the softest, most expensive leather jacket that you can get your hands on. It’s supple, and dances in synch with your rhythm. It moulds to your form. It oozes a quiet confidence, and loves to adorn skin. This is not a black perfecto or a roughed up old favourite. It’s coloured a delicate shade, maybe a pastel hue, even beige done well. The clincher is that it works with everything you have in your wardrobe. It’s a perfect fit and you dream of one in every colour. This is how I miss Violet charms me.
Yes the fragrance does feature violet, as the name alludes but it’s miles away from a violet soliflore if you’re feeling wary. The green facets upfront are a mix of violet leaf, basil and a little citrus. There’s a fizz of champagne and quite quickly the floral hearts sings to me calling my name. The violet flower waltzes in and is not too powdery or sweet. It’s simply an intriguing modern interpretation that resurrects this somewhat polarising note. With a liberal spray the iris is amped and it’s swoon worthy. What lures me is the osmanthus, a note that I have often struggled with, but here it takes on a beautiful velvety apricot tone and the leather starts to become more apparent, and the blend becomes addictive. There’s a slight oily texture but somehow this all works. Other florals in the mix include mimosa and cyclamen. The dry down is equally as special, reminiscent of leathery suede, vanilla, amber and musk. Gentle reminders of violet’s presence continue to reveal themselves on occasion.
There were many great fragrances at Esxence but this is one of my favourites. It’s a perfume that works as an everyday wear but is also gorgeous enough to spray liberally for special occasions, or for late nights in. Each time I wear I miss Violet I notice different elements dancing on my skin. It’s nuanced and elegantly beautiful. Even though it’s long lasting it doesn’t have a loud presence, and dances at a leisurely pace. The story behind the fragrance depicts a woman starting her travels and gifting perfume to her lover for remembrance. This keepsake is a modern floral leather characterised by its smoothness, flow and above all a luxurious smelling scent. It’s my leather jacket with the perfect fit.
Notes : Images : All I miss Violet press images : Emilia Clarke (Daenerys from Game of Thrones) from Just Jared via Glamour France
Disclosure : I received a sample from Esxence via Ca Fleure Bon. All opinions my own.